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Tree Shelters for Food Lot Seedlings

The practice of planting small patches of mast producing trees, commonly called food lots, is growing among deer hunters who own hunting land, manage family land for deer, or those who have long-term leases on hunting land. While it takes a few years to get these trees from the seedling stage to maturity, the wait can be worth it and the next generation of hunters will appreciate it.

One of the secrets to getting a food lot established quicker and getting the young trees off to a good start is to provide them with protection during their first few years. Seedlings are very susceptible to browsing, weed competition, girdling by rabbits and other gnawing animals, being cut and eaten by beaver, damage from string weed cutters, herbicide spray, and from bucks using the tender young trees as a place to establish rubs. All these things take a huge toll on young trees each year. Protection from potential seedling killers, plus the desire to increase tree growth during the first few years of the seedlings’ life, has led to the wide use of plastic tubes, which are called tree shelters.

Tree Pro tree shelters are quick and easy to install in the field.Tree Pro tree shelters are quick and easy to install in the field.

History & Advantages

According to the Iowa State University Forestry Extension Service, the story of “tree shelters” began in England when silviculturist Graham Tuley wrapped polyethylene around some nylon mesh tree protectors and created a “greenhouse” type environment around an individual seedling. Trees in the “Tuley Tubes” appeared to survive better, grow faster, and suffer less stress and animal damage than trees grown outside the tubes.

Studies done in Pennsylvania, Wisconsin, Ohio, and Alabama have shown that hardwood seedlings with tree shelters placed around them grew 90% taller than unprotected trees the first three years of growth. In addition, they had first-year growth over twice the amount of growth of unprotected trees, and a much higher survival rate than unprotected seedlings.

Today, translucent tree shelters are made of light-stabilized polypropylene or polyethylene tubes. These tubes come in various heights from 1 to 6 feet; the size used is determined by the intended function of the tree shelter. Although they were originally marketed as photo-degradable in 5-8 years, many tree tubes last far longer, and in some cases removal is needed as to not girdle the tree.

Tree shelters are mini-greenhouses, speeding up seedling growth. It is recommended to leave the tree shelters on the seedlings for a year after they emerge from the top of the tube.Tree shelters are mini-greenhouses, speeding up seedling growth. It is recommended to leave the tree shelters on the seedlings for a year after they emerge from the top of the tube.

The advantages of using tree shelters are many:
• Protect seedlings from wildlife browsing and girdling
• Protect seedlings from damage by mowers and weed trimmers
• Help locate seedlings in high weeds
• Simplify herbicide applications without damage to seedlings
• Improve survival during critical first five years
• Improve growth via greenhouse effect
• May be used to protect food lot and landscape trees from buck rubbing
• Protect young trees from beaver damage

Installing Tree Shelters Properly

I have just moved to a new farm and am establishing food plots and food lots on my property. I selected Tree Pro tree shelters (www.treepro.com) to use on my newly planted seedlings in my food lots. These polyethylene tree protectors are USA-made from 100% recycled plastic; they create a mini-greenhouse environment around the individual seedlings; they’re easy to ship and store, as they are shipped flat; and, I found them to be quick and easy to install, with each tree shelter supported by a wooden stake.

Here are the instructions provided with these shelters:

  1. After planting the tree in accordance with proper tree planting directions, pound or press the stake into the ground at a distance from the tree equal to about one-half the diameter of the protector. The stake should be on the side of the tree toward the prevailing wind; e.g., if the prevailing wind is from the west, the stake should be on the west side of the tree. The top of the stake should be several inches higher than the top lock-tie that secures the protector to the stake.
  2. Fold the collar back over the outside of the protector, with the smooth side of the protector on the inside. The purpose of the collar is to provide a soft rim so the trees’ bark won’t be damaged.
    Tree shelters may be used on landscape trees as well as mast producing food lot trees.Tree shelters may be used on landscape trees as well as mast producing food lot trees.

    Author’s Note: Many tree planters have found it advantageous not to fold the collar. They’ve found that if the collar is left upright, birds will not light on it because it’s too flimsy to support their weight. Also, it saves time because it’s one less step. Even with the collar up, there should be no abrasion of the tree’s trunk.

  3. With the holes lined up, slide the lock-ties through both holes in each side wall and lock the tie two or three clicks to keep it from falling out.
  4. Carefully slide the protector down over the top of the tree and the lock-ties down over the stake. If the tree has branches, carefully gather them together with their tips facing up before lowering the protector.
  5. Make sure the bottom of the protector is in good contact with the ground. Proper tree shelter installation does not require the tube to be pressed down into the ground because doing so can sometimes cause rodent problems. Mice, voles and other animals often build nests inside protectors that are too firmly planted in the ground.
  6. Tighten the lock-ties.
Unprotected seedlings, such as this chestnut, are subject to slower growth and greater animal damage than seedlings in tree shelters.Unprotected seedlings, such as this chestnut, are subject to slower growth and greater animal damage than seedlings in tree shelters.

Since bluebirds often build nests in the tubes, nets are provided for 48", 60", and 72" protectors. The nets are usually not necessary for smaller sizes.

Installing tree shelters without bird nets is hazardous to bluebirds and other insect-eating birds. Without bird nets, birds trapped inside protectors will not only die, they can also destroy the tree as they try to escape. Net installation is fast, simple, and the responsible thing to do. Simply slide the net over the top of the tube. Inspect your trees periodically to make sure the net is in place. The mesh must be removed before the tree emerges from the tree shelter; otherwise, it can deform the tree.

I have found that it is a good idea to check all of the tree shelters at least once a year, as some may get knocked down by animals or high wind. If checking the tubes during the summer, caution should be used as wasps like to build nest in the tubes.

How Long to Use

It is best to leave the shelters on the trees until the tree grows well out of the top of the tube. Many foresters like to leave the tree shelter in place for at least one additional year after the tree emerges out the top of the shelter. This is usually 3-5 years, depending upon the species of tree growing. Most tree shelters will last up to seven years before they begin to break down from exposure to ultraviolet light.

The tree shelters are not very expensive, from $0.80 to $4.00 per shelter, depending upon the size and quantity purchased, and they are a good investment for serious mast-producing tree planting in a small food lot setting. It is just one more technique to speed up the growth of a food-rich habitat for the whitetails on your property.

J. Wayne Fears, the Food Plot Doctor, is one of the pioneers who helped develop food plot practices that are common today. Now, his decades of experience are available to Whitetails Unlimited members. Although J. Wayne Fears has retired and his column is no longer active, feel free to browse through his past articles and learn more about food plots.

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