Tip 1: Trading the Trade-Offs.
Buying a pair of binoculars is a series of trade-offs. What is more important to you – price, durability, size, low light performance or magnification? You won’t find a cheap, durable, nitrogen-filled pair with high magnification that will fit in your pocket. The laws of optics and economics are both at work here. With binoculars, more expensive really will be better, but you should shop for the features that are important to you. Make a list, narrow down the available models and get the best you can afford.

Tip 2: Roof or Porro?
Lenses produce images that, when viewed by the eye, are upside down and backward. To correct this, binoculars incorporate a prism. Porro prism binoculars are the ‘traditional’ style, with eyepieces offset from the front lenses. Roof prisms have a straight barrel, and may be more compact. Generally, porro prisms have the best optics for the dollar, but are larger and less durable. Roof prisms are more durable, but you will need to spend more to get good optical performance.

Tip 3: What do All Those Numbers Mean?
Somewhere on the binoculars will be a pair of numbers separated by an X, such as 8 X 32. The first number will be the magnification: an 8 means the image will be enlarged eight times. The second number (32) is the size of the front lens element in millimeters. This is useful in comparing binoculars – the larger this lens, the more light will get to your eyes. However, the bigger this lens gets, the larger and heavier the binoculars are. High magnification binoculars are difficult to hold steady, and are difficult to use on objects that are moving. Lower magnification lenses have a wider field of view. If you only use binoculars during mid-day you can get away with small objective lenses, but if you are glassing for deer just before sunrise you may need larger front lenses.

Tip 4: Let the Light Through.
Lens coating, or multi-coating, is a process that deposits thin layers of material on the lenses, which allows more light to reach your eyes. Coating is good, multi-coating is better, fully multi-coated is best. You will pay more for this, but it is worth it in low-light conditions.

Tip 5: Relieve Those Eyes.
Eye relief is the distance the image is projected behind the binoculars, and it is the distance where your eye needs to be in order to see the entire view. This distance can be from 5 mm to 24 mm. If you wear glasses, look for models that have an eye relief of at least 15 mm. If you don’t need glasses, get a shorter eye relief. Eyecups can help keep stray light from entering your eyes from the side, improving your view.

Tip 6: Learn to Focus
Better binoculars will have a two-step process to get the best focus. This is because most people’s eyes are a little bit different. One of the eyepieces will have a diopter adjustment, and be able to focus independently of the main focus knob. Close the eye where the diopter is, and use the other eye to focus the binoculars using the main focus knob. Then switch eyes, and use the diopter focus on the second eyepiece to get the best focus for that eye. There will be a scale on the diopter. Note the number, and makes sure it stays there during the day.

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