Tip 1: Shop Early
Start now to find a good taxidermist in your area. Get referrals from friends, and when you see an outstanding mount ask who prepared it. Visit their shops and talk to them. Is their work natural looking? Make sure you look at examples of the animal you will want mounted. Someone may do incredible fish mounts, but their deer mounts may not be as good. Ask for references, and compare prices. You will find that good taxidermy is not cheap, and the best taxidermists usually have a backlog that can extend many months.

Tip 2: Listen, Believe and Obey
After you find your taxidermist, ask him (or her) how you should handle and prepare the animal before it gets to the shop. Every taxidermist has horror stories of hunters who all but destroy the animal before it comes in, and different taxidermists may have different preferences. Regardless of what you hear or read anywhere else, follow your taxidermist’s instructions. Some damage simply cannot be repaired. The instructions here are general guidelines, but this magazine is not performing the work on your trophy. Like your doctor or bartender, if you don’t trust your taxidermist, find someone else.

Tip 3: No Need to Bleed
It’s never necessary to cut the throat to ‘bleed’ your deer. If you do it will be a big problem for your taxidermist. After the heart stops little additional blood will actually drain from the deer, and this does not affect the meat in any way.

Tip 4: The Caping Crusader
For big game, don’t make any cuts in front of the front legs, and if possible leave the entire hide attached to the cape. It’s best to let the taxidermist cut the hide away from the neck, head and front legs. The areas around the eyes, ears and mouth are critical  and are best left to an expert. Remember that the taxidermist can always cut more hide off, but once you cut it in the field he can’t put it back on. For elk or moose you may have to do the caping in the field, but let the taxidermist tell you how to do it, and what tools you will need . He will also tell you what measurements to take.

Tip 5: Don’t Let it Go Bad
Skins are just as perishable as meat. It is important to get the trophy to the taxidermist as soon as possible, and if you can’t get it there quickly, keep it cold. Here is where individual advice is useful. The basic methods are ice (for short term delay), freezing (for longer delays) and salting. Use salt only when refrigeration is not possible, and remember that salting only works on the areas where the salt actually touches. It will not protect ears, tails, lips, etc. The hide must also be scraped free of all meat and fat. And don’t use salt when freezing, as the salt may actually interfere with the freezing process.

Tip 6: Pierce the Ear
If your state requires you to attach a tag to the ear, use a large safety pin to minimize damage to the ear tissue.

Tip 7: Low Maintenance Artwork
After you get the mount home it will require no real maintenance, but some TLC helps. Don’t place it over a heat register or fireplace that is used, as the constant heat may dry and crack the hide. Conversely, an excessively damp room can also damage a mount. Never use household cleaners on the eyes or hair, but you can use a soft cloth damp with water from time to time. Just remember that anytime the mount is touched it is being damaged to some extent. If the mount is excessively dirty check with your taxidermist for someone trained to clean mounts.

« Top »